- Scientific Name: Eublepharis macularius
- Lifespan: Approximately 20+ years with proper care
- Handling: Anytime
- Size: Up to 6 – 9 inches
- Care: Easy
- Community: Females of the same size may be housed together fine, but males should never be housed together due to territorial aggression.
- Lifestyle: Nocturnal, active at night.
The size tank depends on the size of your leopard gecko. Below are two tank sizes that you will be needing for juvenile and adult leopard geckos.
- Juvenile: 10 gallon tank
- Adult: 20+ gallon long tank
You should use a lid for the top of your enclosure because some leopard geckos are sneaky and will try to get out of their enclosure.
Leopard geckos are low maintenance pet lizards. Leopard geckos do not need much in regards to setting up their enclosure.
Leopard geckos need 3 hides in their enclosure.
- Dry hide on the cool side.
- Dry hide on the hot side.
- Humid hide in the middle, to help with the shedding process.
A humid hide can be created by using a Tupperware container and cutting a hole into it allowing the leopard gecko to get into it. Then place some wet paper towel into the container as substrate. This will allow humidity to build up inside the container to act as a humid hide. The paper towel must be re-moistened when dry and replaced every few days to avoid bacteria or mold build up.
Learn more about leopard gecko shedding.
You should include a water bowl in the enclosure. Water should be changed out every other day.
You’re going to want to add a small dish (Gatorade bottle cap) that contains calcium with no D3 powder. This will allow your leopard gecko to get the calcium when it needs it.
You can add fake plants if you’d like. It will add a feeling of security for your leopard gecko. Fake silk plants will do best. Silk plants are soft and will not harm or scrape your leopard geckos skin as he passes by them.
Lighting & Heating
Leopard geckos do not need a UVB bulb or any sort of special lighting. All they need is a source of heat through a regular house bulb. You may also want to add a heat mat made for reptiles to add belly heat. The heat mat should be hooked up to a thermostat to prevent it from getting over heated. NEVER use heat rocks. There have been stories about leopard geckos burning their bellies because of the heat rocks getting too hot.
When measuring temperatures, it’s best to use digital thermometers. Dial thermometers tend to give off inaccurate measurements.
88-90 °F on the hot side
75 – 80 °F on the cool side
No lights are necessary, temperatures of 70 – 75 °F are recommended. If it is too cold to meet these temperatures without lights, I recommend using a ceramic heat emitter.
Feeding & Diet
Feedings should vary as the leopard gecko’s size, weight, age, and gender does. Leopard geckos primarily eat insects which include: crickets, roaches, mealworms, silkworms, hornworms, and etc. Leopard geckos should be fed what they can consume within 15 – 20 minutes. Any extra feeders left over must be taken out of the enclosure to avoid them from biting and stressing your leopard gecko.
Their feedings must be dusted as follows:
- Calcium without D3 – every other feeding
- Calcium with D3 – 2-3 times a month
- Multivitamins – 2-3 times a month
Rule of thumb: do not feed anything bigger than the space between your leopard gecko’s eyes.
Humidity is the amount of water vapor in the air. Humidity levels should be below 30% throughout the entire enclosure. In the humid hide, you want humidity levels to be above 50% to help with the shedding process. Do not attempt to peel the skin off of your leopard gecko yourself while your gecko is shedding.
You can easily measure the humidity percentages by using a digital hygrometer (humidity gauge). Dial hygrometers tend to give off inaccurate measurements.
Learn more about leopard gecko shedding.
A water bowl must be in the enclosure at all times to allow your leopard gecko to hydrate himself when needed. Water must be changed out every other day to avoid bacteria and dirty water build up.
Leopard geckos should not have any loose type substrates like sand, bark, or etc… A good substrate would be paper towels, reptile carpet, or any other sort of flat surface material. All loose substrate does is cause problems. It gives your feeder insects places to hide, causes impaction in your leopard gecko if ingested, and is sometimes quite expensive to keep switching out every cleaning. Paper towels are the best option in my opinion. It is easy to switch out every cleaning, fairly cheap, gives leopard geckos an easier way to find its prey, and is overall just better. However, if you do choose to use a loose type substrate like sand, then make sure to feed your gecko outside of its enclosure, such as a bathroom sink or separate tank/container.
Learn more about leopard gecko substrate.
Note: The information on this leopard gecko care sheet is not a substitute for veterinary care.