Emperor Scorpion Care Sheet



Scorpion, photo by Kevinzim
Scorpion, photo by Kevinzim
  • Scientific Name: Scorpiones
  • Lifespan: Approximately 5 – 8 years
  • Handling: Use caution when doing so, as they do have pinchers and a stinger that can get you. If you do not have any experience holding a scorpion, please use extreme caution to avoid harming yourself and/or the scorpion. Some may be clam as others may be defensive.
  • Size: Approximately 4.5 – 6 inches
  • Care: Easy
  • Community: Yes & No. Emperor scorpions live in colonies but are sometimes hard to introduce to each other, so it is best to get 2 or however many that have been kept together.
  • Lifestyle: Nocturnal, active at night.


Tank size varies:

  • 1 scorpion requires a 10 gallon tank
  • 2 scorpions require a 20 gallon tank
  • 3 scorpions require a 30 gallon tank

The rule is 1 scorpion to 10 gallons in a tank. This will allow for most comfortable living.


Note: A lid is necessary on the tank enclosure to avoid escapes.


1) Hiding spots which may include coconut huts, log pieces, habba huts, and etc. This allows them to retreat to places when they want to sleep or even when they feel threatened. I would put multiple hiding spots throughout the enclosure if housing more than one scorpion.


2) One bowl. Fill the bowl with de-chlorinated water for hydration.

Lighting and Heating

Scorpions do not need a UVB bulb or any other type of special lighting. All they need is a source of heat through a regular house bulb. As with most arachnids, it is important to keep your scorpion away from direct UV light. This species is especially sensitive to UV light, and such exposure will cause stress and ultimately death

Temperatures should be…

Day Time

75-82 °F is recommended.

Night Time

No lights are necessary. 72-75 °F is recommended. If it is too cold to achieve this temperature without lights, I recommend using a heat emitter or a reptile infrared heat light. Make sure to check temps at night, to reassure the temps are good to avoid stress.


Emperor Scorpions eat a variety of insects which may include: crickets, silkworms, hornworms, small roaches, and other small insects.

Humidity and Hydration

Humidity levels should be between 75 – 80 %. You can achieve these percentages by misting the scorpions enclosure twice daily; once in the morning and once again in the afternoon. If the levels are still not being reached, just mist a few more times throughout the day. Don’t mist too much, that your substrate turns into mud. You don’t want that happening.


For hydration, your scorpion(s)  will use a water dish to drink and hydrate from. When filling the water bowl, make sure to use de-chlorinated water. The water bowl must be present in the enclosure at all times.The water bowl must be shallow enough for your scorpion to enter and get out of without being fully submerged. Make sure to change out the water as necessary to avoid bacteria buildup and to make sure the water is clean.


People use different substrate and have different opinions. You should choose a substrate that is easy to clean and that will allow your scorpion(s) to tunnel and burrow in. The two preferred substrates are peat-moss and coconut fiber substrate. Coconut fiber substrate such as Eco Earth works well also, and is especially good for tunneling and burrowing. Many hermit crab owners elect to use a combination of the two. Avoid gravel, wood chips, or other substrates that are unsafe or do not allow them to dig. The amount of substrate that should be in your scorpions enclosure should be about 4-5 inches. This will allow enough substrate for your scorpion(s) to burrow in. Make sure to keep the substrate damp to retain humidity in the enclosure. Make sure to clean out the substrate monthly to re-assure cleanness.

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