- Scientific Names: Pterophyllum scalare, P.altum, P. leopoldi
- Lifespan: Approximately 10-12 years if proper care is given
- Size: Up to 6 inches in width and 12 inches in height.
- Care: Easy/Medium
- Community: Yes, as long as you have lots of room for them to move around.
- Lifestyle: Diurnal, active during the day.
Tank Size & Requirements
- Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallon tank, bigger is always better.
- Water Temperature Range: 75 – 86 °F
- Water pH Range: 6.0 – 7.2
- Water Hardness Range: 0 – 15 dGH
Perform a 10%-25% water change weekly. If you do not have a filter in your tank, do a water change twice a week.
A hood is recommended as it aids in helping your fish stay in the tank. Also, the hood keeps debris or dust from falling into the tank.
For Lighting: Full spectrum lighting – T5 is recommended.
Every fish and tank is different, so it is important to know what you’re dealing with. Some fish love a lot of current and others love no current at all like bettas. Some fish tanks are tiny and some are huge. Knowing what you have, or what you are going to have will help aid you in deciding which filter to go with. Check this article here to select which filter you should go with. A little tip about angelfish is that they like slow water flow.
Fake plants made of silk, live plants, and decorative ornaments may be put into a molly’s tank. The reason for using fake plants made of silk is to help reduce the chances of your angel fish’s skin getting scraped by the hard plastic some fake plants use. Real plants provide a natural habitat feel, natural food sources, and are an important part of the nitrogen cycle as they help remove nitrites and nitrates from the fish tank. Don’t be alarmed if you have to replace them, as angelfish will definitely eat them. The choice to use fake or real plants is yours. Other items that may be included in your angel fish’s tank would be ornament pieces like your basic pirate ships, skulls, castles, and etc. However, make sure to choose ornaments that are safe for your angelfish, which do not include holes and crevices that may snag your angelfish’s fins or tail.
As you may know, angelfish are considered omnivores which means they like to eat things that are meaty. You basic fish flake food and pellets will be a good part of your angelfish’s diet. However, you are also going to want to add a little vegetation, as well as live or freeze-dried meaty substances like silkworms, bloodworms, brine shrimp, and etc.
When it comes to substrate, angelfish are not that picky. The substrate that can be used may range from sand to large pebbles for angelfish. Size for pebble substrate generally ranges between an eighth and a quarter of an inch. Bigger sizes allow for impaction to occur if ingested, as well as uneaten food to become trapped in spaces between the gravel. A dark-colored substrate about 2 to 3 inches deep is acceptable for most angelfish natural habitat aquariums.
Note: The information on this angelfish care sheet is not a substitute for veterinary care.