Whites Tree Frog Care Sheet

Whites Tree Frog
Whites Tree Frog, photo by


  • Scientific Name: Litoria caerulea
  • Lifespan: 14 – 16 years
  • Handling: Frogs of any species are not really supposed to be handled too much. Their type of skin absorbs anything that comes into contact with them, meaning their skin can absorb oils from our hands which in turn, can result in a sick frog. However, if you are going to handle your frog, make sure to wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling it.
  • Size: 4 – 5 inches
  • Care: Easy
  • Community: Whites tree frogs do best in communities of 2 or more.
  • Lifestyle: Nocturnal, active at night.

Tank Size

Whites Tree Frog Tank Size
Whites Tree Frog Tank Size

You need to make sure you have the right size tank for your whites tree frog. A tank too small can be very stressful for your frog. Use the guidelines below to help determine the best tank size for your frog:

  • 1 Frog: 20 gallon tank
  • 2 Frogs: 30 gallon tank
  • 3 Frogs: 40 gallon tank

For every whites tree frog you get, add 10 gallons of tank space.


When choosing a tank, it is important to remember that whites tree frogs are arboreal which means they love to climb. Although horizontal space is good, they will prefer more vertical space to climb.


I highly recommend the 12x12x18 Exo-Terra terrarium for one whites tree frog and the 18x18x24 Exo-Terra terrarium for 2-3.

Tank Setup

In order to keep your whites tree frog healthy and happy, you should try to set up the tank as best as possible to mimic their natural environment in the wild. Use the guidelines below to help determine which items to get.


Whites Tree Frog Substrate
Whites Tree Frog Substrate

Most people use paper towels as substrate to avoid impaction when it comes time to feeding, but if you are a big fan of aesthetics and would like a more natural look, you can go with something that looks natural and is still safe, like Exo Terra river rocks. Another option which may help help grow plants and help aid in maintaining humidity levels is a loose type substrate like Exo Terra plantation soil or Zoo Med eco earth.


If you are worried about creating a muddy environment with too much water being sprayed daily, you can add a false bottom using Zoo Med HydroBalls and a screen layer. The false bottom will act as an area for excess water to be collected, rather than being collected in the substrate causing the still water to rot the substrate.

Plants and Vines

Whites Tree Frog Plants
Whites Tree Frog Plants

Foliage helps keep your whites tree frog feeling secure and comfortable. Knowing tree frogs are arboreal, you will want to add plenty of plants, vines, and branches throughout the enclosure. A good variety of fake plants for whites tree frogs are the Exo-Terra Pandanus, Bromelia, and scindapsus plants. These plants have some pretty nice big leaves that your whites tree frog will most likely use for sleeping on. As for vines, the large Exo-Terra jungle vines are my favorite for creating very cool walkways across a vivarium.


If you decide to use live plants, make sure you have the appropriate lighting to help keep the plants alive and thriving. Some good live plants to keep in a tree frog’s enclosure are Pothos and Bromeliads. Make sure to always do research on live plants before adding them to your frogs enclosure as some may be toxic to frogs.


Don’t forget to clean out the waste weekly and to replace the substrate with fresh substrate once a month to avoid mold and other things from growing in the terrarium. If you are using river rocks, just make sure you remove them every once in a while and wash them thoroughly.

Lighting & Heating

Whites Tree Frog Lighting
Whites Tree Frog Lighting

While there is little data to show whether the use of a UVB bulb in a whites tree frog’s enclosure is beneficial or not, it may not hurt to add a UVB bulb, as it may help aid the frog in processing calcium and other beneficial vitamins. If you are using live plants in the enclosure, you will definitely want to add a UVB bulb to help your plants thrive. Depending on the type of fixture you get, you may decide to go with a fluorescent bulb like the 18 inch Zoo Med ReptiSun fluorescent bulb or a mini compact fluorescent bulb bulb like the 13 Watt Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0.


Once you get a UVB bulb, you will then want to add a heat lamp to add additional heat if the ambient temperature is too cold (anything below 72°F). A bulb like the Exo Terra daytime heat lamp will be good. Choose the wattage based on the amount of degrees that you have to raise the tank’s temperature. The more degrees, the higher the wattage.


Night temperatures can reach as low as 70°F without needing a heat source. If temperatures drop below that, you may want to consider adding a night time heat lamp like a Zoo Med ceramic heat emitter.


Whites Tree Frog Temperature and Humidity Levels
Whites Tree Frog Temperature and Humidity Levels

When measuring temperatures, it’s best to use digital thermometers. Dial thermometers tend to give off inaccurate measurements.


For temperature and humidity readings, you can go with a 2-in-1 digital reader like the Exo Terra digital combination thermometer/hygrometer.

Day Time

An ambient temperature of 72 – 78 °F.

Night Time

An ambient temperature of 70 – 75 °F.


Whites Tree Frog Humidity
Whites Tree Frog Humidity

Whites tree frogs need humidity. The best way to calculate how much humidity you have in the tank is by using a hygrometer. Digital hygrometers work best. Humidity levels should be between 60 – 70%. You can reach these percentages by misting the frogs enclosure twice daily; once in the morning and once again in the afternoon. If the levels are still not being reached, just mist a few more times throughout the day. You can get a manual mister like the Exo Terra spray bottle or an automatic mister like the Exo Terra Monsoon RS400 Rainfall System.

Feeding & Diet

Whites Tree Frog Calcium
Whites Tree Frog Calcium

The primary diet of a whites tree frog will consist mostly of live insects including: crickets, silkworms, hornworms, small roaches, night crawlers and other types of worms and insects. Feeding each whites tree frog 3 – 6 crickets every two days should be enough to keep them full and happy. If you have more than 1 whites tree frog in the enclosure, make sure that you see each one eating.


The rule of thumb is to make sure the feeder is smaller than the space between its eyes.

Their feedings must be dusted with supplements as follows:

If you don’t like touching the insects with your hands, you can get some feeding tongs.


For hydration, your whites tree frog will use a water bowl to absorb water and to hydrate itself. Water bowls should be cleaned out and refilled daily.


The depth of the water should be no higher than the height of your whites tree frog’s mouth when resting.

Water that is safe to use:

  1. De-chlorinated water
  2. Tap water that has been left out for 24 hours uncovered, allowing the chlorine to evaporate
  3. Bottled water

Whites Tree Frog Care Questions?

If you have any other questions regarding the care of a whites tree frog, please feel free to ask questions in the comments section below.


Note: The information on this whites tree frog care sheet is not a substitute for veterinary care.


  1. This caresheet is not terrible, but the segment saying dumpy frogs do not need UVB light is terribly incorrect. UVB lighting is what helps these frogs absorb the vitamins and calcium from the dust on their food. For the first couple of years I had my frog I did not have UVB, and since learning it was vital to them, his health has improved drastically. As well, they should have a daylight and nighttime cycle, which can be done using a timer on the UVB. Heat should not be getting as cold as 70 degrees, that’s already very low, these are tropical frogs from Australia.

    • Hello Cher,
      I will have it updated for you in the near future. I am just now going through the frogs care sheets to get them updated. If you have any specific questions, you can feel free to ask!

    • Hello Cher,
      The lighting section has been updated as promised, with suggested lightbulbs for enclosures. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

  2. i am new to both frog and gecko world of information and trying to figure which way to buy? chameleon or frogs?? I do not want a lot of maintenance. I have koi, dogs and husband. want to know if can put more than one type of frog (with same criteria) in same vivarium. is this ok as well – a vivarium? instead of a terrarium? say a red eye tree frog and a white frog ?. both use water dish, humidity is alike, will be same size, any suggestions in pairing a couple of different frogs in one tank?
    Can a male and female chameleon be caged together if purchased when babies or infant?

    • Hello Vienna,
      The first tip of advice I would give you is to never mix different species of frogs with one another. The odds are one will eat the other, or one will get the other sick and cause death. Different frogs secrete different toxins and can pass them onto other frog species, so please avoid mixing frog species with one another. You can however have multiple tree frogs of the same specie in a single enclosure if you want a community of frogs, like an enclosure of about 3-4 whites tree frogs, or an enclosure of 3-4 red eyed tree frogs.

      As for the chameleons, I had the same question when first starting out when I was 18 years old (when I had no knowledge and clearly did the pet store worker). I ended up housing a male and female veiled chameleon together when they were both the size of my pinky (nose to tail). As they matured, the male ended up knocking the female off branches, and impregnating her at a very young age. The toll this played on the female chameleon was drastic. Because she got pregnant so early, she had to lay eggs at a young age which in turn shortened her lifespan. So for advice, I will recommend to not house any chameleons with one another (even if they are the same species). They actually prefer to be by themselves. The only exception would be pygmy chameleons, but they only have a lifespan of about 1-3 years.

      To answer your question as to which is easier to keep, I would say frogs are easier. With a vivarium, you can set up and enclosure in a way that cleaning will be minimal. Chameleons on the other hand can sometimes be mean. Getting them out can be hard, some may hiss at you, and if you are afraid of them, you probably will try to avoid cleaning their enclosure at all costs.

      If you are open to other reptiles, try looking into leopard geckos if you don’t mind having to feed live insects, or crested geckos if you want to only feed live insects sometimes, as crested geckos can be fed a powdered fruit diet that mixes with water.

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