- Scientific Name: Agalychnis callidryas
- Lifespan: 4 – 10 years
- Handling: Frogs of any species are not really supposed to be handled too much. Their type of skin absorbs anything that comes into contact with them, meaning their skin can absorb oils from our hands which in turn, can result in a sick frog. However, if you are going to handle your frog, make sure to wash your hands thoroughly before and after handling it.
- Size: 2 – 3 inches
- Care: Medium
- Community: Red-eyed tree frogs do best in communities of 2 or more.
- Lifestyle: Nocturnal, active at night.
You need to make sure you have the right size tank for your red-eyed tree frog. A tank too small can be very stressful for your frog. Use the guidelines below to help determine the best tank size for your frog:
- 1 Frog: 10 gallon tank
- 2 Frogs: 20 gallon tank
- 3 Frogs: 30 gallon tank
For every red-eyed tree frog you get, add 10 gallons of tank space.
When choosing a tank, it is important to remember that red-eyed tree frogs are arboreal which means they love to climb. Although horizontal space is good, they will prefer more vertical space to climb.
In order to keep your red-eyed tree frog healthy and happy, you should try to set up the tank as best as possible to mimic their natural environment in the wild. Use the guidelines below to help determine which items to get.
Most people use paper towels as substrate to avoid impaction when it comes time to feeding, but if you are a big fan of aesthetics and would like a more natural look, you can go with something that looks natural and is still safe, like Exo Terra river rocks. Another option which may help help grow plants and help aid in maintaining humidity levels is a loose type substrate like Exo Terra plantation soil or Zoo Med eco earth.
If you are worried about creating a muddy environment with too much water being sprayed daily, you can add a false bottom using Zoo Med HydroBalls and a screen layer. The false bottom will act as an area for excess water to be collected, rather than being collected in the substrate causing the still water to rot the substrate.
Plants & Vines
Foliage helps keep your red-eyed tree frog feeling secure and comfortable. Knowing tree frogs are arboreal, you will want to add plenty of plants, vines, and branches throughout the enclosure. My favorite plants for red-eyed tree frogs are the Exo-Terra Pandanus, Bromelia, and scindapsus plants. These plants have some pretty nice big leaves that your red-eyed tree frog will most likely use for sleeping on. As for vines, the large Exo-Terra jungle vines are my favorite for creating very cool walkways across a vivarium.
If you decide to use live plants, make sure you have the appropriate lighting to help keep the plants thriving. Some good live plants to keep in a tree frog’s enclosure are Pothos and Bromeliads. Make sure to always do research on live plants before adding them to your frogs enclosure as some may be toxic to frogs.
Don’t forget to clean out the waste weekly and to replace the substrate with fresh substrate once a month to avoid mold and other things from growing in the terrarium. If you are using river rocks, just make sure you remove them every once in a while and wash them thoroughly.
Lighting & Heating
While there is little data to show whether the use of a UVB bulb in a red-eyed tree frog’s enclosure is beneficial or not, it may not hurt to add a UVB bulb, as it may help aid the frog in processing calcium and other beneficial vitamins. If you are using live plants in the enclosure, you will definitely want to add a UVB bulb to help your plants thrive.
Depending on the type of fixture you get, you may decide to go with a fluorescent bulb like the 18 inch Zoo Med ReptiSun fluorescent bulb or a mini compact fluorescent bulb bulb like the 13 Watt Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0.
Once you get a UVB bulb, you will then want to add a heat lamp to add additional heat if the ambient temperature is too cold (anything below 72°F). A bulb like the Exo Terra daytime heat lamp will be good. Choose the wattage based on the amount of degrees that you have to raise the tank’s temperature. The more degrees, the higher the wattage.
Night temperatures can reach as low as 70°F without needing a heat source. If temperatures drop below that, you may want to consider adding a night time heat lamp like a Zoo Med ceramic heat emitter.
When measuring temperatures, it’s best to use digital thermometers. Dial thermometers tend to give off inaccurate measurements.
For temperature and humidity readings, you can go with a 2-in-1 digital reader like the Exo Terra digital combination thermometer/hygrometer.
An ambient temperature of 72 – 78 °F.
An ambient temperature of 70 – 75 °F.
Red-eyed frogs need humidity. The best way to calculate how much humidity you have in the tank is by using a hygrometer. Digital hygrometers work best. Humidity levels should be between 60 – 70%. You can reach these percentages by misting the frogs enclosure twice daily; once in the morning and once again in the afternoon. If the levels are still not being reached, just mist a few more times throughout the day. You can get a manual mister like the Exo Terra spray bottle or an automatic mister like the Exo Terra Monsoon RS400 Rainfall System.
Feeding & Diet
The primary diet of a red-eyed tree frog will consist mostly of live insects including: crickets, silkworms, hornworms, small roaches, night crawlers and other types of worms and insects. Feeding each red-eyed tree frog 2 – 6 crickets every two days should be enough to keep them full and happy. If you have more than 1 red-eyed tree frog in the enclosure, make sure that you see each one eating.
The rule of thumb is to make sure the feeder is smaller than the space between its eyes.
Their feedings must be dusted with supplements as follows:
- Calcium without D3: every other feeding
- Calcium with D3: 3-4 times a month
- Multivitamins: 3-4 times a month
If you don’t like touching the insects with your hands, you can get some feeding tongs.
For hydration, your red-eyed tree frog will use a water bowl to absorb water and to hydrate itself. Water bowls should be cleaned out and refilled daily.
The depth of the water should be no higher than the height of your red eyed tree frog’s mouth when resting.
Water that is safe to use:
- De-chlorinated water
- Tap water that has been left out for 24 hours uncovered, allowing the chlorine to evaporate
- Bottled water
Make sure to keep the enclosure clean. The main reason for death among most red-eyed tree frogs is a disease called the “red leg disease”. The disease mainly occurs when enclosures are not kept clean. If this occurs, there really isn’t anything to reverse the disease sadly, so make sure everything is cleaned very well and is kept clean.
Also, it is not a good idea to stick a brand new red-eyed tree frog that you just bought into an enclosure with a red-eyed tree frog that you have had for a while. If the new red-eyed tree frog has any diseases, it can be passed on to your old red-eyed tree frog, cause the both of them to become ill. I recommend to put your new frog into a separate tank for at least a month, and if he/she is perfectly fine with no health issues, that is when you can introduce the frogs to one another. It’s best to just buy the red-eyed tree frogs together to not have to go through this hassle later on.
Red-Eyed Tree Frog Care Questions?
If you have any other questions regarding the care of a red-eyed tree frog, please feel free to ask questions in the comments section below.
Note: The information on this red-eyed tree frog care sheet is not a substitute for veterinary care